Onsen Town, Japan

Obasute Mountain, Choraku-Ji Temple and “Ta-Goto-no-Tsuki” (Moon-Reflecting Terraced Rice Fields) (姨捨・長楽寺・「田毎の月」棚田)

From practically anywhere in Chikuma City, you can look up and see the crown-shaped round top of Mt. Kamuriki.  The name literally means “crown” (kamuri) and “to wear” (ki), but it is the mountain’s nickname that gets people’s attention: Obasute Mountain.  Obasute has been the muse to many artists, from haiku poets and ukiyoe wood block print makers, to modern film makers such as in the 1983 "The Ballad of Narayama " which won the Cannes Film Festival Palme d’Or. 

The best place to start exploring Obasute Mountain is from the train station of the same name:  the unmanned Obasute Station on the JR Shinonoi Line between Matsumoto and Nagano City.  In the station you will find displays related to the legend, as well as a haiku “post” to submit your poem about Obasute in 5-7-5.  The train station itself is unique in that it is set up on a switchback because the old steam engine trains couldn’t make the steep Obasute grade without zig-zagging.  The station is also famous for the view at night of the lights of the Zenkoji Plain.

Also from the station you can see a series of terraced rice paddies that are positioned in such a way that the rising moon reflects in the individual fields.  There are areas with terraced rice paddies throughout Japan, but there is only one “Ta-Goto-no-Tsuki” (literally “Moon in Each Field”).  It is approximately a 150 metres to walk from the station will take you to Choraku-Ji Temple.  Here you will find a great view rice fields as well as the thatched-roof moon viewing pavilion where the renowned poet Bassho was inspired to write some of his haiku.  Towering above Choraku-ji is a massive stone, “Oba-Iwa”.  Its desolate top provides an impressive view of the Chikuma River below, and, depending on who you ask, was the spot where the old people were thrown away.

Obasute Mountain Legend (これは別枠)

A long, long time ago, there was not enough food to eat, causing the local lord to order everyone over 70 years old to be taken to the top of the mountain and left to die.  One son tried carrying his elderly mother up, but along the way realized she was snapping branches on trees to mark his way back down.  He was touched by her kindness, and couldn’t bring himself to throw her away.  Meanwhile, the neighboring lord came and threatened to invade if the people couldn’t answer his riddle.  Thanks to the elderly lady’s wisdom, the locals answered the riddle and saved their land.  They then realized how valuable the elderly were and did away with the Obasute rule.